Igra rokenrol, cela Jugoslavija
6 countries, 13 days, 77 hours of bus.
Highlights: the Bosnian folk music on the Vienna-Mostar night bus, honey hearts, bombed buildings in Bosnia, the “fucking bridge” in Mostar, snow in Sarajevo, getting serenaded in a restaurant, the “very home made” bread, Ćevapčići, kiselo mlijeko, “do not seize the monuments”, Tito cafe, the stray dogs, spending three hours playing cards in a bar having ordered only one coffee and two beers, “I can totally handle this in local language”, waiting in Lukavica bus station, a lot of “Kukavica”, deciphering cyrillic, bombed buildings at 5 AM, “Oh, I thought hvala was only for Bosnia”, guns, big guns and tanks, turkish coffee, the horse, the ethnographic museum in Belgrade, the old men playing chess in Kalmegdan park, “I swear the guide says “stop reading this guide”“, crepes nutella+plazma, theories on ugly people, rakija, struggling with a Serbian burger, more rakija, taxis, meeting friends, electoral posters, the godforsaken villages in southern Serbia, the demonstrations at the Kosovo border, the old ladies cursing because of the delay, coffee and chocolate cake in Pristina, the bazar and the pro-Kosovo rings, “I’m in a State, motherfucker don’t you ever forget”, pork dinner in the Serbian enclave, hoping you don’t get your kidneys stolen on the dodgy bus to Skopje, he statues in Skopje (I want the statue in my honor made there, they’ll definitely make it the right size), the new (unbeatable) level of kitsch of wedding dresses in Macedonia, the snowstorm on the way to Montenegro, blonde Montenegro border police: errare è umano, perseverare montenegrino, sea and snow, the seemingly ghost town of Budva, empty beaches, burek, the bay of Kotor, sunset in Dubrovnik, stray cats, the city walls, bread and spreadable cheese diet, more honey hearts, another sunset by the sea, having “I’m Italian, feel free to talk to me” written on your forehead, crossing the Schengen/not Schengen border by foot, Dubrovnik-Split-Zagreb-Vienna-Prague, 22 hours of bus out of 27.
Kukavica, Sky and Sand, Midnight City, Conversation 16, The River, Aspirina, Igra rokenrol cela Jugoslavija, Khorakané.
La storia è nella terra, non nei musei.